I have jacket fever.
I am so done with sewing empire-line maternity dresses. I am so done with 95° + humidity. I am so ready to sew a bunch of fitted fall jackets and skirts with funky linings and lots of detail.
Yeah, I know I already posted a fall sewing plan with more garments than I could hope to complete. Guess what? Here are some more!
First up, a version of the Burdastyle Hikaru jacket with chest pockets àla Elaine’s version in espresso cotton sateen with an olive polka-dot lining:
Next, a motorcycle-style jacket (Burda 7735) made from the same gray cotton I used for the bag in the previous post, and an olive floral print cotton lining. (I admit I had my eye on the print for a while but couldn’t figure out what on earth I would make from it. The idea of using it for a lining came directly from the pouch project.)
I wasn’t sure how I felt about the collar on this one but after sketching it out I kind of like it. Belt might be a bit much. We’ll see.
And while we’re at it, here are a couple new Burda envelope patterns that showed up online this week. Thankfully I haven’t bought either the patterns or the fabric for these yet because there’s no way I would get to them and I don’t know how wearable they’d be for me anyway.
These long fitted jackets were everywhere on my favorite Korean clothing site a couple years ago. I love this style but (a) the largest Korean sizes are too small for me and (b) I can’t really pull off anything that looks like a suiting blazer. Ah well. Nice to know I could make one in my size if I wanted. Here are a couple of pics from the Korean site that I liked:
Also, I think I’m on a motorcycle jacket kick. I love this one too. Probably wouldn’t look as nice on me as on the skinny-legged model but how cool would this be in a plaid houndstooth? Much nicer than the blouse-y version in the upcoming August Burdastyle:
Ok, and now I will admit that against my better judgement I went ahead and started muslining the Hikaru jacket. Yes, I know I’m 7 1/2 months pregnant but I reasoned that I could try it on open and most of my fitting issues are generally with the back. I cut a straight 40, which is a size up from what I used to cut on top, and made it up without any alterations (except to shorten the sleeves by 1/2″). Nice pattern! Now I see why everyone raves about Burda’s drafting. Anyway, here it is:
I realize now that I have no idea if it will be flattering or not given my current shape. I like where the seam lines fall on the back on the 40, although I feel like the shoulders are falling off of mine and maybe it could come in a wee bit at the side seams. I can’t tell if the shoulder thing will be fixed by stiffer fabric and maybe some shoulder pads or if I should shorten the shoulders a bit. I’m considering making the following alterations and forging ahead
- shorten shoulders by 1/4-1/2″
- take in side seams at the waist by 1/4″
- slash and spread the base of the back peplum by 1/4″ on each side
Alternatively I could save my fabric and wait till I have a shape to fit it to. What do you think? Am I crazy?






Amy | 24-Jul-10 at 8:19 am | Permalink
Nice choices! I got pretty antsy to make non-maternity things toward the middle of my pregnancies too…I don’t think you’re crazy. How attached are you to that fabric? If the fit doesn’t turn out quite right, will you be heartbroken? Or just a little disappointed?
fruitbat | 24-Jul-10 at 1:48 pm | Permalink
You miiiiight be crazy. Pregnancy thickens shoulders, chest, back … for me I was surprised by the changes in fitting when my body began to shrink back down – I had been thicker in places I didn’t notice. Shoulders are a good example – if under your arm is thicker and your bicep is thicker and your upper chest is thicker, it’s hard to figure how the shoulder will fit.
That said, if you have good measurements from before you could probably guesstimate what will happen. For me the only thing that permanently changed was my waist size – gained 1.5-2″, although I am my pre-babies weight. But, it took me a year AFTER STOPPING BREASTFEEDING to get back to this weight. YMMV.
Mind you, I never let reason stop me from doing something I wanted to do
I think, at the age of 39, I am just starting to really think things through. Having kids take up your sewing time gives you lots of time for thinking about sewing!
good luck!
fruitbat
Mary Nanna | 24-Jul-10 at 7:38 pm | Permalink
Ok – if you love it sew it, yes it’s true your body changes after baby but how much where is anyone’s guess – some people become slimmer all over! Huh! Generally waist thickens out and boobs sag after nursing – that’s the sum of it.
However, sew now while you have the time and inclination. Are you going to want to sew after you’ve been up all night with baby? No siree. So get in while you can.
I love your choices they’ll look great.